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MITSUBISHI PAJERO MANUAL TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS

Manual transmission assy for 2002...2008 Mitsubishi PAJERO

10 Most Common Transmission Problems - A Team Transmissions
10 Most Common Transmission Problems. Determining what problem(s) your car has may seem like an impossible task, especially to the untrained eyes and ears of the average driver. To check the fluid level for a manual transmission, you must check at the transmission case (usually through the fill plug) – not with a dipstick under the hood.
2001 Mitsubishi Montero Transmission Problems
wwwomplaints›Mitsubishi›Montero›20012001 Mitsubishi Montero transmission problems with 10 complaints from Montero owners. The worst complaints are 4wd will not go into gear, not shifting properly, and stuck in high gear.
Videos of mitsubishi pajero manual transmission problems
Click to view on YouTube3:03Mitsubishi Shogun Pajero Montero 3.2 Gen 3 Manual Transmission V5M3 jumping out of first gearYouTube · 2/17/2014 · 30K viewsClick to view on YouTube1:27Mitsubishi Pajero turbo diesel 1992 manual super-select transmission 32000mlYouTube · 9/3/2017 · 587 viewsClick to view on YouTube0:20Mitsubishi Pajero Sport Exceed Transmission ProblemYouTube · 1/18/2018 · 3 viewsSee more videos of mitsubishi pajero manual transmission problems
My 2008 Pajero GLS initially had a gearbox problem of
May 30, 2013Mitsubishi. Mitsubishi repair problems? Ask a mechanic for answers ASAP. My 2008 Pajero GLS initially had a gearbox problem of getting stuck on Neutral. I took it back to the dealer and the somewhat sorted the issue but now my car will not reverse. so I have no overhaul manual for that transmission specifically and it is different to5/5Thanks Brian. If you are absolutely certain that the fluid level is correct, then this is indicating that you have clamping problem, likely on LR Brake, Reduction Brake or Reverse Clutch circuits. This could be caused by worn down frictions on one of the holding elements or a line pressure issue inside the transmission. Since the engagement is hurried we know two things.. that the transmission is fully engaged to select Reverse and that Reverse is technically activated mechanically, it just is slipping severely. Since increasing the engine RPM increases the line pressure, this increases clamping pressure on the holding elements for active circuits in the transmission. This resolves both the issue if it were friction failure or insufficient pressure. So at that point we would need to find out which is the cause. You can not identify if the friction discs are worn without disassembly, however you can determine if the pressure is the problem or not, thereby ruling in/out the frictions. This is where we get back to the shop (or maybe a different one if they couldn't get this far on their own). The transmission needs to be pressure checked on each circuit to see what your line pressures look like. Reverse requires the highest amount of line pressure of all gear ranges, plus no other gears seem to be malfunctioning, so your primary check would be the reverse line pressures.. LR, REV, RED.. they are marked on the transmission case with test ports for a transmission gauge set. All three should be in the 200-250 psi range at 2000-2500 rpm. When testing, they would watch the gauge to see if it spikes and drops, if it very slowly goes up, etc. Correct operation would be instantaneous spec pressure as soon as it is revved. Anything less will result in no/delayed engagement. If all three pressures are fine, then the transmission is coming out for examination. One (or more) of the your holding element frictions are worn out. If all three pressures are low, check the other circuits to see if they are low too. If they are there could be an oil pump problem, converter engagement problem, regulator valve or valve body problem. If one of the reverse circuits is low or malfunctioning, you have a good chance there is an issue inside the valve body and transmission removal would not be necessary. This could be a lazy solenoid, a sticking valve, or miscellaneous pressure loss from the valve body sealing area. If nothing unusual is found on an examination of the valve body, then the transmission again would need to come out as there is likely an o-ring or d-ring failure somewhere inside the case (proper repair would be to go through the whole unit at that point due to the level of disassembly). If the problem appears to be across the board pressure loss, non-valve body pressure loss, or friction failure, most people opt to go with a new/remanufactured/used transmission due to the similarity in cost in many instances as well as the guarantee it will usually come with.Sounds like if the valve body was worked on during the repairs to get it from slipping into neutral from Drive, then they likely fixed one problem and created another one. "should change the the "valve body kit again," the automatic clutch reverse disc, LR break disc kit" If the Reverse issue was not there before and it was only Drive, then NO, none of this sounds reasonable at all. If the Reverse problem was not there before, the clutch/brake frictions did not just burn up over night. Even in a poorly operating transmission it can take hundred or thousands of miles to do that much damage. Further, there is no need to "change the valve body again" if it was repaired properly the first time. Given the situation with regard to the previous problem going away and the new problem forming, then there would be almost no possible way that the problem is not something they did to the valve body. I would say they need to be working for free on this one.Hi, Something is still going to be amiss in the valve body most likely. If the engine is stalling upon placement in Reverse, then the transmission is loading up too greatly for the engine to be able to handle. Similar to when a torque converter goes bad and locks up in the 1:1 position, the engine will die the second it is placed in gear since the engine can not turn fast enough at idle to over power the load. It sounds like they just genuinely goofed up pretty good in that transmission. This is not a "normal" failure that you would see without intervention to cause it.Hi, If this were in my shop, the first thing I would do is get a list of what was performed exactly and then un-do it. Basically the situation is this: Truck had problem A Repairs were performed Truck no longer has problem A, now it has problem B Something went wrong there . Now as far as what went wrong.. you'd have to go inside to see what looks amiss. Considering you had a problem with slipping into or getting stuck in Neutral, and now that problem is resolved but you have a delay/difficulty engaging Reverse, my #1 suspect would be a problem in the valve body.. not seated properly (so pressure is lost), a burr in a valve, etc. Knowing that they were just in the valve body (though unclear on what exactly was done.. be it new valve body, new gasket, etc), I would be suspecting these top three issues: Valve body not seated/torqued properly, losing pressure Debris or burr in a valve.. be it reverse related valve or regulator valve.. remember reverse requires the highest line pressure of all gears Valves or accumulators reassembled incorrectly The latter would be an issue if the valve body was either replaced or disassembled. The valves can get mixed up and they are different lengths, and the accumulators springs can get organized incorrectly resulting in abnormal line pressure. If they had the accumulators out and put the springs back in the wrong spot, that would certainly do it too. You would need to get a service manual for your exact year transmission to verify proper placement. While I can tell you that OD, DC and RB accumulators are the only ones with single springs, the rest (importantly LR) have dual springs.. each spring will be marked with an anodized coloring on the end to denote tension and they are not always all the same. If you had the petrol model I could get you the orientation, but not for diesel (since my market didn't have diesel this year, so I have no overhaul manual for that transmission specifically and it is different to compensate for different engine characteristics). You may get lucky and every spring has a red anodized stripe and they are all the same (we saw this on the older 6G engine transmissions), but you wouldn't know until they are removed to check.Hi, Do you know if the range/gear position switch and cable was checked/replaced? It sounds like the transmission isn't physically acknowledging the shifter movement, or the shifter is not moving the position fully. Is there any back story to how/when this problem developed?Thanks. When you are in Sport mode, what is the malfunction then? Does it still slip into Neutral or does it simply slip out of Sport mode (into Drive)? If that isn't occurring at all any more that is OK.Thanks. If you tick the engine up to 2500 rpm or so does the Reverse engage sooner? I am in eastern North America so I am mid-day here, but you can just post when you get back and I will reply as soon as I am in again.Hi, I'm unclear on the current situation. the transmission operating normally now that the valve body was replaced again and the reverse clutches changed? Or did they do that and now things are worse?
Mitsubishi Pajero Transmission Problems | CarComplaints
wwwomplaints›Mitsubishi›PajeroWorst Mitsubishi Pajero Transmission Problems. We're actively collecting data on the worst transmission problems for the Mitsubishi Pajero. If you've had a problem
Mitsubishi Transmission Problems and Solutions. - Got
Mitsubishi Transmission Problems and Solutions. It seems the Mitsubishi line of transmissions has an extensive list of problems. I can attest to that since I have been on the repair and rebuilding side of transmissions for over 30 years. 26 years as a shop owner and operator.
Transmission shifting problem - Bob Is The Oil Guy
wwwstheoilguy›Forums›Mechanical/Maintenance ForumJul 12, 2011I have a weird shifting issue with my Pajero/Montero. The transmission in question was supplied by Aisin-Warner to Mitsubishi at the time, until they started using their own transmissions in 2001 on these vehicles.
Buying a used Mitsubishi Pajero, 1987-2010 - wwwook
Buying a used Mitsubishi Pajero, 1987-2010 with a five-speed manual transmission and part-time 4WD, using manual free-wheeling front hubs and steel split-rim wheels. Box-shaped Pajeros suffered mainly from transmission problems, which were largely rectified in V6 and turbo diesel models from 1988, with the introduction of a new five-speed.
Mitsubishi PAJERO EVOLUTION V55: GOOD DAY,I HAVE JUST
we substituted the transmission valve body with that of a mitsubishi challenger in the workshop at the time. TESTED OVER A FEW DAYS AND WORKED PERFECTLY. I WOULD BE INTERESTED TO ACCESS THE DOWNLOADABLE INFO AND MANUALS
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