WIRING A MINI STARTER WITH TWO STUDS ON A SBC
Videos of wiring a mini starter with two studs
Click to view on YouTube2:05Wiring a 1 Wire Alternator and High Torque Mini Starter #653K viewsYouTube · 4/14/2009Click to view on YouTube3:18GM Starter Connections206K viewsYouTube · 3/22/2016Click to view on YouTube2:06Chevy Alternator and Starter Wiring - Technical Help Video 6561K viewsYouTube · Click to view on YouTube16:07Wiring a Three Wire Magnetic Motor Starter9 viewsYouTube · 7/11/2016Click to view on YouTube1:42My Stage-1 Buick 455 Regal's James McClinton mini-starter Re-Wiring! 7-17-20112 viewsYouTube · 7/17/2011Click to view on YouTube7:03Ford powermaster high torque mini starter install9 viewsYouTube · See more videos of wiring a mini starter with two studs
How to install a mini high torque starter on a 67 Camaro?
Jul 12, 2008I am installing a mini high torque starter into my 67 Camaro. I am not sure what wires should connect to the SINGLE spade terminal on the starter. My original starter had 2 connections; the I and S terminals. I have connected each wire separately and together on the single spade but I am not getting the starter to turn.Hello Customer, First let me state the purpose of each terminal on the stock starter. "Batt" is for the battery positive cable "Mot" is for the heavy wire leading to the actual starter motor. "S" is from the ignition switch and signals the solenoid to connect the "Batt" and "Mot" terminals through a contact inside the solenoid (applies voltage to the starter motor) "I" is an Ignition bypass, this circuit bypasses the ballist resistor that is in series with the ignition coil while in the start position. (applies cranking voltage to the + on the ignition coil, this was necessary for point type ignitions. The "I" terminal was dropped as part of the solenoid in the 80s after all ignitions were converted to electronic. The terminals on your new starter does not have the "I" connection, the small blade terminal is the actually the "S" terminal. If the ignition has been upgraded to an electronic you won't need the "I" connection. The wire that normally hooks up to the "S" terminal is a purple one It will be hot when the ignition is in the Start position.Both wires can go to the "S" terminal, but this would put additional current through the Ignition switch contacts. To cut down the current you could put a relay in the circuit to control the bypass circuit, making the "S" terminal send power to the coil of the relay (low amperage) and the Ignition circuit through the contractor (load side of the relay).Yes that would work also, the diode would need to go in the direction of the ignition coil. What is the problem currently? With or without the (I) terminal wire connected the starter should still turn the engine over but probably would not start the engine. With all of the larger ring terminals connected to the large post on the solenoid, Test each of the small wires for voltage while key is in the start position. This is the one that should be connected to the small spade.We need the one "hot" with the key in START.The start circuit does go through the neutral safety switch (only allowing voltage at the "S" terminal in P and N) This is more than likely the reason no voltage is present at the starter S term. The resistor wire will backfeed voltage to the starter hence the reason for the diode as described in earlier posts. The diode can be purchased from an electronics store like radio shack. A diode is a one way check valve for electricity only allowing current to flow one way, the way you want it to flow is out to the resistor when the car is started but not when the car is in run or the starter would receive voltage at all times. The diode will have a line across one end this would be installed in the R circuit with the line on the closer to the resistor.I stepped away from the computer for a minute and realized the info I posted for the diode is correct but it doesn't go to the resistor it goes directly to the + side of the ignition coil bypassing the resistor . This circuit is for the Ignition and will solve the problem of not having an (I) terminal on the new starter. The ballast resistor on the firewall cuts the voltage down to the coil while the car is running The factory (I) circuit temporarily bypasses this resistor because the engine needs the higher voltage at the coil to start. Now for the start circuit the resistor is not part of this circuit. The 5 wires leading to the shifter I am not sure of the purpose for each exactly as to which color does what. But one should be HOT when the ignition switch is placed in the start position and one should lead to the starter S terminal. You could jump these 2 and this would bypass the P and N safety feature. The others are probably for the reverse lights. Are you building this car? I guess what I am asking is did it start and run with the old starter? And was the shifter and the starter replaced at the same time?Has the engine started after trans replacement? Check out this link also http://wwwle/imgres?imgurl=http://novaresource/images/solenoid02&imgrefurl=http://novaresource/starter&h=317&w=290&sz=4&tbnid=7Z9LKjm2Z7YJ::&tbnh=118&tbnw=108&prev=/images%3Fq%3DHigh%2Btorque%2 Bstarter%2Bdiagram&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=2&ct=image&cd=1 Thank you for using Just Answer.